Custom Corsets

I love corset making because it is such a beautiful and challenging art, requiring knowledge of the human body, precise sewing and attention to detail.

What historically used to be an everyday structural undergarment, in modern times has become a statement piece.

Corsets can be made for any body type, from athletic to curvy, and for any gender. They can be extremely structured (like the black one shown) or lightweight and gentle.

A common misconception about corsets is that they have to be tight-laced and provide a significant waist reduction. While this is the goal of some corset wearers, not everyone will need (or want) waist reduction.

Some bodies, in particular, bodies with squishy areas around the waist, will comfortably accommodate a larger waist reduction, while others (particularly those with more muscular builds, or those with masculine physiques) do not allow as much waist reduction. And that is okay, because there are patternmaking tricks and padding techniques which can give the illusion of an hourglass silhouette if that is what you desire. The most important thing is that the corset fits your body well, and from this good fit we can build creatively according to your needs and desires.

This particular corset was made for my own measurements.

I draft each corset pattern on paper from scratch based on the client's measurements, as every body is unique and each person has their own desired silhouette they would like to achieve with their corset.

Once the pattern is drafted, I cut an initial mock-up out of a fabric that is similar to the final fabric, and assemble it (with boning) for a first fitting.

Here are some photos of the mock-up during the fitting. Please forgive my quick phone camera pics!

I was fortunate that the first mock-up of this corset did not need very drastic changes. At this point, I realized I needed to adjust the neckline above the bust, in order for it to neatly sit against the chest. I also decided to take out one of the side back seams at the top by half a centimetre, in order to make more room for the squishy flesh of my back.

This time for the mockup I left the bones a bit long in order to have flexibility to reuse them for the final corset. Normally I would cut them to the correct length and enclose them, in order to properly see their effect on the structure of the garment.

For this corset with its minimal changes, I decided to move on to the final piece after only one fitting. However, it is normal that some corsets will require 2 to 3 fittings.

The final corset was cut out of plain black cotton herringbone coutil, which was made the same way, and in the same factory, as it was made in the 1800s. I cut out all the pieces again in the black patterned cotton fabric, then fused it to the coutil. After the pieces were fused, they could be treated as a single piece of fabric.

Some progress shots of the final corset:

The partially assembled corset is already beginning to show shape, from the curves of the pieces. Here you can see the temporary hand basting I've made to indicate where the internal boning channels will be placed.

The boning channels are pinned in place on the inside, taking care to centre them over the seams. They are then sewn into place "blindly", from the outside of the corset, to make sure the visible seams on the outside are perfectly aligned. All 18 boning channels are sewn in this way.

Trimming off the top seam allowance after inserting the boning, before biding the top.

Lacing the back of the corset on to the modesty panel. Grommets are placed slightly closer together at the waistline, as more strain will be placed at the waist.